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Corn Snake Care Sheet
HOUSING
Corn snakes are resourceful escape artists so be sure
the cage you get has a secure and tight fitting lid. Snakes in general require
fresh air, but too much ventilation can cool the cage unacceptably. If your
only ventilation is on top of the cage, you should be using an under tank
heater for your primary heater. For hatchling corn snakes a small enclosure
with adequate ventilation will be suitable. Until they reach 24" in length
a cage 12" by 8" will suffice. Remember, these neonate snakes can escape
any cage with gaps or holes the size of their snout. When they are adults the
cage length should be approximately 1/2 the length of the snake. A 15 or 20
gallon aquarium with a locking lid is adequate space for an adult corn. As a
substrate for the cage remember the three "don'ts". CEDAR, ANY BARK,
SAND and GRAVEL. These are either toxic to your snake or are not absorbent,
therefore promoting the growth of bacteria. Folded newspaper while not
aesthetically pleasing is sanitary, inexpensive and convenient. Be sure to put many
layers on the bottom of the cage so as to create a barrier between snake and
heat source if you're using an under tank heater. Aspen beddings are natural
and absorbent substrates that most breeders and keepers use. Pine shavings are
sometimes used, but I only recommend them for adult snakes. There is talk
lately about the toxic properties of pine and fir. Especially when it gets in
your pets drinking water. Avoid using BARK forms of pine and fir. The
most toxic chemicals in those trees are concentrated in the bark and can harm
your pets. You only need to remove the soiled portions of the beddings
routinely and only have to completely change the contents periodically. Let
your eyes and nose dictate the frequency of maintenance. Each cage should also contain
a water dish that is large enough for the snake to submerge in. Your snake will
soak in the water when the cage is too hot or sometimes to soften skin before
shedding. The water should be changed at least twice a week or more if it gets
soiled or cloudy. Do not use distilled water. Distilled water lacks valuable
minerals essential for proper nutrition in your pet. Water softeners add too
much sodium to the water. Snakes have poor long-range eyesight and therefore do
not like to be in the open. A hide is advisable for the mental health of your
snake. A piece of bark or an empty box of appropriate size will suffice. Most
pet shops sell decorative plastic or ceramic hides that will enhance the looks
of your vivarium, but be sure they are large enough that you can safely free
them in case you want to remove them from their hide.
HEATING
Heat is the most important element in the success
of keeping snakes alive and healthy. In the wild, they prefer daytime
temperatures between 79 and 85 deg. F. Nighttime temperatures can fall to 70
deg. F. with no ill affects. I prefer to keep the temperatures the same in the
cage day and night and as the temperatures in the house fall at night, the
slight change will not adversely affect your snake. If you don't use a thermostat
to control the temperature, I recommend that you have an under tank heater
under one side of the tank. These are designed to be on all the time. If you
supplement the heat with a light over the tank, put it over the heated side or
slightly toward the center. Be sure there is one side of the vivarium that has
no heat so the snake can cool off if necessary. The instinct for a snake to
hide is often greater than their sense to be in the right temperature so be
sure the hide is not in the hottest or coldest part of the enclosure. Observe
all cautions on the label or box of the under tank heater and light to avoid
the risk of fire. HOT ROCKS are dangerous as they concentrate the heat in one
place and contact burns to your snake as a result can be deadly. Whatever you
use, it is recommended that you have a thermometer in the cage near the bottom
of the tank and on the inside. It is preferable to place the thermometer DIRECTLY
ON the substrate in or near the warm-side hiding place. You don't need to
know the cage temperature six inches above your snake or on the outside of the
glass where your snake hopefully cannot go. Essentially, you are taking the
snake's body temperature by monitoring the temperatures in or near the hide
they frequent most. All snakes will benefit from fluorescent UV light, but it
is not necessary for corns. Corn snakes are considered to be nocturnal and for
thousands of years have not required direct sunlight to survive.
FEEDING
In captivity corn snakes should be fed captive
bred rodents only. Wild lizards, birds and rodents can transfer parasites to
your snake. If your snake refuses domestic rodents consult a professional to
recommend temporary alternatives. Hatchling corns will eat one mouse pink
(newborn mouse) once or twice a week. They will often want more, but feeding
more than this can be dangerous to the health of your snake unless you have
adequate temperatures and space for exercise. A rule of thumb regarding the
size you feed is that the "lump" from the prey item should be visible
for 12 to 24 hours after feeding. If it is not visible during this time, you
may need to move up to the next size rodent. If the "lump" is still
visible after several days, it might be advisable to reduce the size of the
prey. Prey items that are too large can result in regurgitation as the rate of
decomposition exceeds the rate of digestion and there isn't room for the
swelling meal. It is advisable to feed prekilled or stunned rodents, as there
is a slight possibility of damage from the prey during the kill. If you feed
live prey, be sure not to leave the snake unattended. If the snake refuses the
rodent for any reason, remove it and offer it on another day. If your snake
unexpectedly refuses food, consult a professional for advice. Do not repeatedly
offer what it does not want to eat as the snake may become conditioned to not
want that prey item in the future and you may be wasting valuable time in
correcting potential health problems. Corn snakes can fast for long periods,
but only if they have to. I recommend that you establish a routine feeding
schedule. You don't have to adhere to it strictly, but long periods of fasting
are not recommended unless you are brumating your snake in preparation for
breeding under proper temperature conditions.
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